What does it really take for a heritage brand to become part of everyday culture? In this episode, Lew Frankfort—former CEO of Coach and author of The Bag Man—shares how Coach scaled from a small leather workshop into a global brand by designing for real life, not runway moments. Lew breaks down why he focused on “share of closet” over one-hit wonders, how early DTC testing and customer data shaped collections, and the craft decisions—like lighter-weight leather and functional silhouettes—that turned comfort into a competitive edge. He also reflects on Coach’s expansion into Japan in the 90s, the power of signature materials, and today’s brand stewardship with Stuart Vevers and Todd Kahn, where sustainability, vintage, and experiential retail are signals of listening, not gimmicks.

Key Takeaways:

• Design for real life — Function, comfort, and repeat use build lasting loyalty.
• Data beats instinct alone — Zip codes, psychographics, and field testing reveal what customers won’t say.
• Stewardship over seasons — Legacy brands win by evolving their codes, not abandoning them.

🎧 Listen now for a masterclass on building a brand that’s both human and durable.

Our Guest:
Lew Frankfort is the former CEO of Coach and author of The Bag Man. Over more than three decades, he helped transform Coach into a global leader in accessible luxury by blending craftsmanship, customer insight, and disciplined brand strategy—setting a blueprint for how heritage brands can scale without losing their soul.

Host Emily Blumenthal is a handbag industry expert, author of Handbag Designer 101, and founder of The Handbag Awards. Known as the “Handbag Fairy Godmother,” Emily also teaches entrepreneurship at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She is dedicated to celebrating creativity, craftsmanship, and the art of building iconic handbag brands.

Find Handbag Designer 101 Merch, HBD101 Masterclass, one-on-one sessions, and opportunities to book Emily Blumenthal as a speaker at emilyblumenthal.com.

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