Karan Gokani is one of London hospitality’s great shape-shifters: a former corporate lawyer who walked away from the safe path, then built something with genuine soul. We meet him inside Hoppers’ newest opening, a total reimagining of the old Lyle’s space, and talk about what it feels like to inherit “hallowed walls” without being haunted by them. The result is not a tribute act. It’s a new chapter, with a fresh personality, a different rhythm, and Karan’s fingerprints all over it.

This conversation is a masterclass in why his restaurants never feel like “branches” (a word he hates). Karan explains how each site has its own character, shaped by postcode, clientele and timing, while still sharing a common DNA. From Soho’s starry-eyed early days to the evolution of the group into something closer to a family, he lays out what it actually takes to scale without turning sterile.

We also get deep into the food and the thinking. Karan unpacks why he’s gone harder on hyper-regional South Indian cooking, why “dosa isn’t just a dosa”, and how research trips across India fed directly into new dishes you can only get at this opening. Expect stories from Mangalore to Chettinad to Chennai, plus the details that make it all feel lived-in: antiques carried back in luggage, a biryani with a deliberate spelling difference, and a menu built to guide you through discovery without turning into a high-street checklist.

Finally, this is a proper behind-the-scenes look at modern restaurant craft: the “three-mile test”, the psychology of service, and why Karan thinks the lazy answer is simply pushing prices up. He talks about accessibility, kindness and value, the staffing reality post-Brexit, and the obsession with guest experience over ego. It ends with Bangkok as his ultimate food city, a dream of opening a pizza concept, and a Springsteen play-out that feels exactly right.

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