This week, we’re joined by Dr. Henrik S. Wilberg, recently of the NYT, author of the Substack Why We Remain in the Provinces, polyglot, surplus obsessive, and dad. We get his geographic CV and his summer travels, then go deep on the death of cool, the European/American style divide, and why vintage might be exhausted.

Along the way: how American clothing first landed in Europe, countries rediscovering their own vintage, Ralph usurping the WASP ideal and selling American cool back to itself, the soft power of cool in the post-GWOT era, designers destroyed by capitalism, and the fantasy that we’re all still living in the same world. Henrik also previews his idea of “filial style,” which he describes as “piety rather than self-expression,” and explains why we remain in the provinces.

Also: Barbra Streisand, fax machines, Brokeback Mountain, and a lot of things we forgot.

Dead stars. Nothing is the same. Listen now, link in bio.

A sporting episode? What has become of your loyal co-hosts? Well, Matty is, as always, conversant, while Conor can at least talk about Baltimore. And so we do. We talk Baltimore, in a big way: The Baltimore Colts, their leaving town under the cover of darkness, Cal Ripken Jr, uniforms, jerseys, chain stitching, Under Armour (barf), skateboarding in the 90s, “functional art,” “No Ball Playing,” Clothing as cosplay, Nerds vs. Dorks, BALTIMORE DOESNT LIKE YOU EITHER, being ripped off, pigs, regional accents, Baltimore Pride, and a bushel more! As ever, you know where the link is.

We did not trick these titans into coming on! They volunteered for another round in the um luke warm seat. Ladies and Gents, theys and thems, we welcome back to the show the sharp as a tack editorial cartoonist, Kevin Kallaugher, of The Economist, and recently ousted from The Baltimore Sun and attorney, Barry Lynn, formerly Director of Americans United for Separation of Church and State, and author of Piety & Politics: The Right-Wing Assault on Religious Freedom and (titled by me) Paid to Piss People Off: Peace, Porn, and Prayer.

And, boy, do we get into it: Kal's 50th anniversary at The Economist, scandals, discovering Barry has a book of Kal's, how to engage with the checked out, mid-terms, the military, Sigh...The Democrats, Freedom of Expression Under Siege, fighting government overreach, the lame stream media, organizing on substack, Jerry Fucking Falwell, satire, humor, cartoonists and comedians and their similarities, Lewis Black, money, defining charisma, USA Bicentennial, BIG RIP to "Flimsy Lindsay" Graham, Mamdani, a box of flaming excrement, and, actually, maybe a few more boxes of burning shit.

This week on, a special late night episode, the tenacious tatooer, Peter Toatley. In Conor’s sleepiest episode ever, we still manage to cover: lines that didn’t age well; as ever, the climate; cooking; shout out the OG @anaffordablewardrobe; Crown Chicken; college algebra; teaching yourself math; dropping out of a liberal arts school; “the disposable economy;” puppetry; WWII USN overalls; Doing crossfit so you can eat hot dogs; Mexican hot dogs, and an Ambien more.

A very old friend today: Billy has known me since we were in 1st grade, so 30 years. We talk about "diving in," neurodivergence, metal, Apple's Tyranny, managing a tour and a record label, touring, veganism, yoga, friendship, and way more!

Typically, our sources need no protection, but, sometimes, they do. So, we welcome the individual or organization known only as R. L. Grails to the program. We have been in contact with this or these individuals for some duration now, but we have finally decided that it is time to bring his knowledge into the light. We talk, of course about Ralph Lauren, the man, the brand, the legend, etc, but we also peer deeply into the undeniable influence of hip-hop culture, Tommy Hilfiger vs Ralph Lauren, Nirvana as an entry to culture, growing up in the 90s, sharing knowledge, Maximalism, or Not Being A Minimalist, “getting the most out of ordinary things,” and more!

This week, we welcomed back long-time friend of the show, Militaria legend, astute journalist, collector, historian, and author of Combat Threads, Charles McFarlane. The first of a two-part series, we explore the beginnings of his writing career, his recent outdoors adventures, what pieces of vintage military gear still hold their own, the intersection of modern military clothing and outdoor gear, the WW2 distribution system, the “Tactical Military Industrial Complex”, and a slew of other topics.

This week, the super kind, super smart Eric Langois (pronounced LANG-WAH) in the studio! We talked about the American South via Asheville, NC, novelty ties, dressing for church, inspiration, chambray, The Andover Shop, writing, Hercule Poiroit, trains, the rules of menswear, vanity and hubris, and hogshead more!