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Sintesi dell'editore

As strips of tofu sizzle beside her in a vat of oil, Nguyen Thu Hong listens for police sirens.

Police raids on sidewalk vendors have escalated sharply in downtown Hanoi since March, she said, and officers fine her about $9, or two days’ earnings, for the crime of selling bun dau mam tom — vermicelli rice noodles with tofu and fermented shrimp paste — from a plastic table beside an empty storefront.

"Food So Popular, Asian Cities Want It off the Streets" is from the April 29, 2017 World section of The New York Times. It was written by Mike Ives and narrated by Keith Sellon-Wright.

©2017 The New York Times News Service Division of The New York Times Company (P)2017 Audible, Inc.

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